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Gabriel Baicus - Clothes should be a partner you can rely on

Enjoying climbing the world's highest peaks, staying calm and feeling safe and comfortable at the same time is anything but simple. With training, preparation and quality functional clothing, every climb, even in the most difficult conditions, can be an unforgettable experience. Alpinist Gabriel Baicus knows this too, as he was the first Romanian to climb Everest (8848 m) and Lhotse (8516 m) in our clothes. How does it feel to stand on top of the world? What is it like to be among the first to be touched by the morning sun? And how to choose the right clothes for the most demanding climbs, where every wrong step can be fatal?

Gabriel was born in the picturesque mountain town of Nehoiu in Buzau County. Nature, the surrounding hills and forests were his home, but it wasn't until 2010 when he moved to Spain and discovered the allure of the rugged Pyrenees that he realized he belonged in the world of mountaineering. He fell in love with adrenaline, which eventually rewarded him with breathtaking views in the European and Japanese Alps, the Carpathians, the Himalayas and the Atlas.

The most beautiful moment is the sunrise

I am often asked what it is like up there, what is the view from the roof of the world? This is a difficult question to answer. There are a lot of emotions that are taking over me, but I have to stay completely focused because I'm only halfway to the top. Sunrises and sunsets up there are truly magical moments. After hours of robotic night walking, during which your brain is constantly sabotaging you and begging you to give up, sunrise is the moment I truly come alive. At that moment, my senses run wild.

I laugh and enjoy the long-awaited warmth of the sun and unique views. When you finally see the outlines of the mountains, the colors of the sky, and the light rising above the world, it's as if you yourself have come alive. That's when you forget about fatigue and all those long and tiring hours. When you realize that you are among the first people in the world to be touched by the sun's rays that day, as you are almost at the highest point in the world, you can only be grateful to have experienced this moment, says Gabriel.

gabriel baicus northfinder

There is both death and the will to survive up there

When you climb the glacier wall for hours and hours, you are overwhelmed by many feelings. You feel your self, but at the same time it seems as if you are not there. That's when you feel what it means that nothing limits you - it's the state between spirit and body, between you and nature, between life and death." During the expedition to Manasl in 2021, he experienced one of the most challenging tests. "I was climbing alone. I did not use oxygen or Sherpa help. It happened during the climb to the very top. According to the original plan, from C3 (6800 m) it was supposed to climb to the top (8163 m) in one go and return to C2 (6400 m).

While climbing C4 (7450 ​​m), which is the most demanding part of the ascent, it happened to me that I fell asleep and hung on the rope. I hallucinated and dreamed that I was swept away by an avalanche. It was terrible. I woke up, checked myself and told myself that this should not happen again. I was exhausted and barely made it to C4 where I spent the next two nights. I felt sick and also had stomach problems. At one in the morning I was all alone in C4. All the climbers left, and I had to find a place where I could sleep without freezing. Luckily I found a free tent with a good sleeping bag. That night was very long, but everything ended well and I successfully climbed Manaslu the next day.

gabriel baicus northfinder

Clothing must be a partner you can rely on

When you are going on a ten-day tour, you want your clothes to be as light as possible and to breathe well. Depending on the chosen sports activity, you can wear a variety of clothes of more or less quality. For me, footwear is crucial, the first layer that comes in contact with the skin, and the third or fourth layer, which must be waterproof. I think this is the most important, everything else can be compromised. I have been wearing Northfinder clothing for two years. During this time, I tested a variety of pieces in a wide variety of conditions. Everything from the Carpathians, through the Alps and the Pyrenees to the Himalayas. The clothes that used the materials PrimaLoft® and Polartec® Alfa® Direct.

performed very well, and the clothes from the touring ski collection – Rysy pants and padded jacket Budin – made an impression. At high altitude, you move slowly due to the lack of oxygen, so you need warm clothes. But I felt safe and comfortable in these. When it comes to footwear, it is good to choose Vibram® leather and soles, a Gore-Tex® membrane layer for wind and water protection, Polartec® material for the middle layer, and Merino wool for the first layer."

"Among my favorite pieces of clothing are the Rysy hybrid ski touring pants, which are perfect for ascents between 5,000 and 7,000 m, as they are very durable and warm. I plan to go on more climbs and adventures with them in Nepal. For less strenuous activities, I prefer the Braiden pants, which are breathable, comfortable and light. An excellent choice is the jacket Bukovec, which is breathable, stretchy, light and dries quickly, or the technical Javornik jacket. The padded Budin jacket works great as a middle layer when climbing. It is comfortable and just the right thickness. For windy and rainy weather, I always choose the light and foldable Chabenec.

gabriel baicus northfinder

Gabriel selection of Northfinder products

"The top of one mountain is the base of another, so keep climbing." - André De Shields

Next year I am planning a commercial expedition to Nepal to the peak of Lobuche (6119m), and then I will be coordinating a large expedition of two Spanish athletes who will try to climb Everest at a very fast pace. I have many ideas that I would like to implement. I am an optimist by nature and always ready for new challenges. I don't even rule out an expedition to some eight thousand. I try to be ready all the time and take advantage of every opportunity that is offered to me," concluded Gabriel Baicus, who has been our ambassador for years, and with his help our clothes are exposed to the most extreme conditions and stress tests.